Gardening tips for November 2011
Like many gardeners, I wish I could have a crystal ball, to gaze into the future and see what sort of winter weather is coming. We all got used to mild and wet, with many of us starting to believe that plants hardy to -5 C/23 F would flourish forever (apart from those of you in places like Aberdeen who have always had your feet firmly on the ground).
Weather patterns have changed and if they continue on the recent trend, we can expect another freezing cold winter with snow, followed by a dry, sunny spring, an unreliable, cool and cloudy summer through July and August (timed beautifully for the school holidays) and ending with a glorious autumn.
So where does that leave the hapless gardener? Well this one is no longer going to waste her money on plants of dubious tenderness. From now on my borders will be filled with plants awarded three stars for full hardiness in the Royal Horticultural Society Encyclopaedia. I’ll be planting plenty of hardy spring-flowering bulbs, as they’ll be safe in the ground, but dahlia tubers will be lifted and stored in pots of dryish, old compost in a frost-proof shed.
We probably all have the remains of tender plants like myrtle and bottle brush, which died back but then gingerly put forth new shoots during the summer. I’m going to pop a fleece jacket over these to stave off the cold and protect from searing winds that can easily wither tender evergreens.
Other slightly tender plants in pots, such as melianthus, agapanthus, piggy back plant and even camellia will be moved into the unheated greenhouse, where they can enjoy some extra protection. Seriously tender potted plants (cacti, pelargoniums, ginger lily, angel’s trumpet, bird of paradise) will have to huddle in the porch, which being double glazed and attached to the house, is the only bit of glass worth heating to keep the frost out. With luck, the heater will save our wellies from freezing too.
What to do in November
……in the kitchen garden
- Plant new fruit trees and bushes. Garden centres should be full of tempting varieties now.
- Net winter brassicas such as cabbages, kale, sprouting broccoli and sprouts to keep the hungry pigeons off.
- Sow hardy broad bean varieties straight to the ground. Mine survived winter last year and went on to give a good crop. Cover with cloches in colder regions.
……in the flower garden
- Plant your tulips bulbs now in borders and pots. This later planting helps them avoid the disease tulip fire.
- Nip out the growing tips of sweet peas germinated from earlier sowings. This helps them branch and stay compact ready for planting early next year.
- Finish pulling out the remains of summer annuals and replacing them with pansies, wallflowers or bellis for winter and spring.
……and in general
- Start your bonfire away from the heap of twigs and prunings and gently fork them on to the fire, to avoid harming toads, slow worms and hedgehogs who often make nests under long-standing heaps.
- Spread a good 8cm/3in mulch of well-rotted soil conditioner over the roots of rhododendrons, camellias and Japanese maples to insulate their roots from the cold.
- Insulate the glass of greenhouses and cold frames with bubble polythene to keep them more frost proof and save money on fuel if heating. Do make sure vents can still be opened on warmer days.
Q and A
Q: I planted a row of lavatera bushes to act as a hedge. They’ve grown very leggy. How do I make them thicken up?
A: I expect these are Lavatera ‘Rosea’ or L. ‘Barnsley’ which are tall, hardy shrubby mallows. Leave them alone now but give them quite a hard pruning in spring. Don’t worry, they can take it. I’d cut them back by a good two thirds, cutting just above a leaf or node (position where a leaf was) on the stem. You can prune every spring.
Q
: I would like to know if and when I should move my three-year-old Pieris japonica.
A: We can all plant things in slightly the wrong place and while shrubs are young, they move easily. Do it as soon as you can this month. Make sure the new site is generally well-dug and conditioned (pieris like shelter from cold winds and acidic soil) and dig the hole before lifting the plant. Make sure the roots sit at exactly the same height in the ground as before, as they dislike being buried deeper, or sticking out higher. Water in if the soil is dry.
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